Going on an expedition is a unique experience! It is better to prepare yourself physically and psychologically for the new situations you will face, because the high mountains are a hostile environment.
Philippe our guide, my father and I at the summit of Mont Blanc (June 2019)
High mountain is a term used to designate the mountain area where human evolution is subject to strong constraints arising from altitude but also from weather conditions , distance and various risks linked to this environment.
High mountains most often require specific preparation and progression techniques. Progression in high mountains can be as much a physical as a mental test : this is the framework within which summit climbs take place.
HOW TO TRAIN?
A climb is above all a continuous effort, often of unusual intensity. This requires training mainly the muscles of the lower limbs, and one's endurance capacity.
In team sports we often hear "we play as we train", so if in the high mountains we don't "play", on the other hand we can take away from this popular quote the fact that regular training is essential if we want to put all the chances on our side!
When to start your preparation?
As soon as possible!
The longer your preparation, the more effective it will be, so as soon as you know the date of your mountain trip, start training, while respecting the principle of progression . There is no point in starting to run a week before attacking the summit.
For the ascent of Mont Blanc (mid-June 2019), I started training specifically in January.
Endurance
Mountaineering requires above all qualities of endurance: the capacity to sustain a more or less intense effort for a long period.
Some points of reference:
The ideal training remains regular mountain walking, we will automatically have the difference in altitude and we will then train both the peripheral (muscles) and the central (cardio). Get used to it as if you were there: walk slowly (take inspiration from the tortoise rather than the hare) and drink regularly!
Walking in the great outdoors (outside the mountains) at a sustained pace this time, with elevation changes for 4 to 5 hours, then from time to time over a day (7 to 8 hours), constitutes a good basis for maintaining your physical condition.
Practicing endurance sports will also produce results: cycling, swimming, cross-country skiing, or even ski touring, the activity closest to expedition mountaineering. The most "practical" and effective preparation remains running, which uses and develops the cardiovascular system and respiratory capacity.
It is advisable to run regularly (2 to 3 times a week) by gradually increasing the distance and pace, without getting out of breath (you must be able to continue talking while running).
Being able to run for 1 hour at a speed of around 10 km/h is an excellent test and a guarantee of good physical condition.
The resistance
Being able to provide intense effort in a short period of time and recover quickly. "Training" circuits are particularly suited to this type of effort. If you do not train regularly, getting back into shape over several months is essential before undertaking a serious objective.
The portage
A significant amount of carrying is inevitable for any major expedition. This can be a formidable handicap. So regularly go on independent hikes or even train in the city with "well-weighted" backpacks. In this context, the best muscle training for the lower limbs remains hiking or running.
However, I like to break the training routine with my "sled" and run or walk while pulling it, while looking for the difference in altitude. Well, I reassure you, it is not obligatory!
MINI PREPARATION COURSE
Without being a mandatory condition for the climb, this mini course or "snow school" is already an essential element of success and contributes to the classic preparation for a distant climb.
This allows the guide to judge the physical and mental level of the clients, but also to carry out an initial acclimatization, ensure a review of the specific equipment...
Before our ascent of Mont Blanc, our guide offered us a 2-day snow school, including the ascent of the Aiguille du Tour (3540 m) as well as a night at the Albert 1er refuge (2702 m), as sleeping at altitude is a good way to acclimatize. We were able to familiarize ourselves with the mountaineering equipment, and reassure our guide about our physical level.
The rigors of the environment
Of all sports, mountaineering is one of the most subject to atmospheric conditions: cold, wind, bad weather... Getting used to life outdoors , to bivouacking and practicing your sporting activities, whatever the weather, will help you better withstand the sometimes very harsh climatic conditions of the high mountains.
Psychological preparation
Beyond optimal physical condition, the driving force behind success in the mountains lies in the associated mental preparation.
You have to be in good shape at the appointed time, but also "well in your head". At the decisive moment, you will need strong determination , the will to get to the essentials by putting small inconveniences and setbacks at their true value.
The mountain is a school of discipline and self-control , because it is this which makes possible the joy of climbing which shines through in so many stories .
If you want to experience climbs at an altitude of 6000 m, Bucket List Aventure, with whom I collaborate, will offer you tailor-made support and unforgettable experiences in different regions of the world!
EXPERIENCES
Personally, I have prepared and completed several climbs: Vinicunca (5200 m in Peru), Mont Blanc (4810 m), Barre des Ecrins (4101 m) and Roche Faurio (3730 m).
At the summit of Roche Faurio (3730 m) in the Massif des Ecrins (June 2020)
Professionally, I prepared Benjamin for the ascent of Mount Pisco (5752 m, in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru), Claire for the ascent of Kilimanjaro (5895 m, in Tanzania), and Karyn for the Thorong Pass (5416 m, in Nepal). I concocted tailor-made programs for them over several months and responding to the characteristics of each of their challenges: planned ascent date, duration of the expedition, level of difficulty, starting level, etc.
Claire, on the roof of Africa (November 2022)
Benjamin, on the peaks of the Peruvian Andes (May 2022)
Karyn, in the Himalayan range (October 2023)
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